Buenos Aires Street Food Part Dos

parilla-buenos-aires

My three months in Buenos Aires are up, sadly. I loved getting to know the city by walking everywhere and sitting in parks peoplewatching. The weekends were my favorite because everyone spent the day outside. I would walk to Puerto Madero's Costanera Sur, where I'd be surrounded by local people and food.

No, Buenos Aires doesn't have as strong of a street food culture as some countries you see Anthony Bourdain travel to, but I found the area along the ecological reserve to be the best place to fill up for a buck or two. Although I've written some about this before, I have a few more street treats to add.

bondiolaBondiola — This grilled pork shoulder can be a little tough, so it wasn't typically my first choice, but it's a common order for others. Porteños tend to keep their food simple. Bondiola al limon (with lemon) is standard. I liked to load up on the vegetables. My sandwiches always looked like a salad bar compared to those of locals. In fact, that's how I decided which parilla to visit, by the topping options.

choripans

The stand where I got these choripans (chorizo sandwiches) had great salads and marinated vegetables to add. Oh yeah, and it still costs a dollar no matter how much you load on top.

morcilla-blood-sausage

I also loved the caramelized onions and spicy salsa at the stand where I got this morcilla (blood sausage).

grilled-bread

And if you read my ode to dough, you know how hard it

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was for me to ever pass up the grilled bread. Some stands only offer plain, but others will slice it and add cheese, ham or other filling in the middle. My favorite stand was a mother-daughter operation in the Puerto Madero park. They would mix spiced ground meat into the dough before cooking. Fantastic results.

churros-donuts

And then, there's dessert. People would make cakes and other sweets to sell in the parks on weekends. I usually went with a churro or an alfajor, which involves two soft cookies surrounding dulce de leche, then rolled in shredded coconut or dipped in chocolate.

alfajoresYep, I'll miss this.

More about Buenos Aires street food here.

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Buenos Aires Street Food… or Reasons Why I Cook Less Lately

I believe that if you want to know a city, you have to embrace the streets. In Buenos Aires, I walk between three and 12 miles each day, venturing to different corners of the city

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and using new routes all the time. And if Anthony Bourdain has taught me anything, it's that street food is often some of the best a city has to offer. I've been taking advantage of BA's cheap and delicious options, so I thought I'd share.

Argentina is well known for the parilla, the grill. There are many stands serving up asado, whether it's grilled flank steak, blood sausage, burgers or chorizo. The photo above is choripan, a chorizo sausage on bread. Chorizo here is a pretty plain sausage, not the spicy stuff from Spain or Mexico. But it's got smoke from the grill, classic chimichurri sauce and is enveloped in a perfect baguette. This 4-peso meal (just over $1 US) from Palermo is still one of the best I've had here.

Also at the portable parillas are hamburger patties that are otherwise unextraodinary until you realize how many topping options you have waiting for you. I dressed my burger with two varieties of chimichurri, mayo, a pepper and onion salsa of sorts, tomato, pickled cabbage, lettuce and fried shoestring potatoes. Six pesos in Puerto Madero.

When you're less in the mood for grilled meat, pans rellenos are a great option. People walk around craft markets selling these stuffed breads out large baskets. If you're lucky, yours will still be warm when you get it. Common fillings are ham and cheese or mozzarella, tomato and basil. I got this massive one filled with pumpkin, corn and cheese in San Telmo for 8 pesos yesterday, and I just finished the other half for lunch today.

There are many possibilities for dessert, too. The majority involve dulce de leche. These churros are filled with the heavenly stuff and are 1 peso each (about equal to a quarter) in Recoleta.

There's much more, but consider this an introduction.

Read Part Two here.

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